We All Love Jamaican Food--Really!
We are so blessed (and spoiled) when we stay in Jamaica, because the condo comes with a cook named Gloria, and a maid, Janet, who sets a beautiful table, makes the beds, keeps things clean, and does laundry daily. We arrived in Montego Bay shortly before noon, EST. By the time we made our way through immigration and customs, and picked up our rental van, we were all hungry. Bill drove straight to the condo with only one missed turn--pretty good memory after seventeen years, I think. When we arrived at the condo, we were warmly greeted by Gloria and Janet. After everyone toured the spacious condo and chose their bedrooms, our friend Lillian came by to welcome us and make sure we had everything we needed. She didn't stay long, though, because the table on the patio was already set for lunch.
I've heard that every culture has a version of a dough-wrapped meal. Here in Nebraska, the Runza, or cabbage burger, is king. Michigan has pasties, filled with meat, potatoes, carrots, and rutabagas. Mexico has given us burritos. Jamaica has patties, made with a flaky, orange pastry that conceals a spicy meat filling. Bill and I love patties. We remembered that Erin liked them, too, but Meagan didn't care for them at all when she was little. (Meagan subsisted on grilled cheese sandwiches and mashed Irish potatoes on our previous trips.) We were pretty sure Andy would like patties, because he loves spicy food, but we didn't know if Victoria or Levi would even try them--that's one of the reasons Lillian suggested that we bring peanut butter and jelly from home, so the kids could have familiar food to eat, if necessary.
Jamaican patties were such an appropriate first meal. Meagan expected to like them this time--and she did. Victoria examined hers carefully before trying that first bite, but she ate it all. Levi took a nibble or two, proclaimed it "too hot," then proceeded to eat the whole thing. The rest of us loved the patties, too--they were just as good as we remembered.
Our friend, Lillian, is seventy-five years old, a native Canadian, and Jamaican by marriage. Her husband, Richard, died of cancer a couple of years ago, but Lillian has hardly slowed down. She has retired from her job with Air Canada, but she is still the honorary Canadian Consul for much of Jamaica, outside of Kingston, and she still assists with the family businesses, a quarry and a hardware store. In her free time, she helps out with a children's home. When Lillian heard we were heading to Jamaica again, she e-mailed and called to help us make arrangements. We went through menus over the phone, and she did our grocery shopping for us, so the cupboards and refrigerator were well-stocked when we arrived.
Except for that first day, our lunches usually consisted of American food, like hot dogs and turkey sandwiches, so the kids would be comfortable eating in Jamaica. But even the hot dog buns were homemade; we were intrigued to see that Gloria cut them lengthwise, with the "hinge" on one end instead of along one side. Gloria outdid herself for our evening meals, serving roasted chicken with rice and peas (red beans), red snapper with lime sauce, Jamaican stir fry, and scrumptious pumpkin soup, which is a lot like vegetable beef soup in a rich pumpkin broth.
When Lillian called, she asked if our family liked fruits and vegetables. Apparently, many condo guests do not, but most of our family loves them. I was pleased that everyone, even cautious Victoria, was willing to try almost everything. We were excited to eat such a variety of fresh fruit for breakfast everyday--papaya with lime is my favorite, but we also enjoyed cantaloupe, oranges, pineapple, and mangoes with our spice bread or toast with guava jelly. Bacon and eggs were a hit one morning, and pancakes with syrup made our last morning memorable. Vegetables included the familiar, like green beans, broccoli, and cauliflower with cheese sauce, but we also sampled more exotic fare like bok choy (Asian cabbage), roasted breadfruit, plantains (cooked bananas), cho cho, which tastes like a cross between potatoes and squash, and, of course, ackee, Jamaica's national dish. Ackee is an unusual fruit, often prepared with salt fish or bacon, that looks and tastes much like scrambled eggs. Although it may be poisonous unless prepared properly, ackee is nutritious and delicious. I've already mentioned gnips in my previous post; to eat them, you slip off the green skin, put the whole slimy fruit in your mouth to gnaw off the pulp, then spit out the pit. Gnips are definitely an acquired taste. Meagan adores sugar cane, so Bill hunted all over Montego Bay to find a street vendor who was selling it. You can't really eat sugar cane, which is cut into strips about five inches long. You chew on it instead, sucking out the sweet juice before discarding the woody remains. Sugar cane is also an acquired taste.
In Jamaica, we have to consciously stay well-hydrated. The tap water is drinkable, thanks to the British who originally colonized Jamaica many years ago. We drank countless glasses of Crystal Light peach tea and our preferred beverages, lemonade and limeade, both made with fresh squeezed fruit and brown sugar. We all like Jamaican pop or, as Levi calls it, soda, which is less carbonated than what we are used to, including flavors like grape, orange, ginger beer, and champagne cola. Our three beer drinkers quaffed icy bottles of Jamaican Red Stripe for a change of pace.
Lillian made a special effort to stock kid-friendly snacks. She has seven American grandchildren, so she knows what kids like. Snacks included bananas, Oreos and Ovaltine cookies, Pringles potato chips, and vanilla ice cream with chocolate syrup. One of Victoria's friends asked her to bring him some Jamaican candy. Tamarind balls can be hard to find, and rightly so, because most of us agreed that they taste disgusting! I hope he likes them.
We ate out occasionally while we were in Jamaica. Gloria and Janet both had the day off on Sunday, so we ate our evening meal on a houseboat anchored nearby. To reach the houseboat, we got to ride on a small, pulley-propelled ferry. The proprietors could have let us access the boat via gangplank, but the ferry was much more fun, and safer, too. Several of us relished the heavenly grilled lobster that we had to pick out for ourselves from the below-deck tank. (Afterwards, we discussed the lobster wrangler's probable resume, along with other jobs he might be qualified for.) Andy ordered lamb, which he declared was "very good." Victoria devoured all of her red snapper with anchovy sauce, but she didn't want to try the accompanying potato cake. Those of us who taste-tested for her proclaimed it edible, much like U.S. hash browns. Levi was worried that he wouldn't find anything on the menu worth eating, but he ordered a big bowl of black bean chili. He downed it all, except for a few bites that the rest of us sampled. It was delicious, and not too spicy.
Another day, we ate lunch at the Pelican, which serves a variety of Jamaican and international food. It's interesting to see hamburgers and french fries listed under the international heading. Victoria was thrilled to have a cheeseburger, and Levi gladly ate a plate of spaghetti. The rest of us savored curried goat, jerk chicken and pork, and callaloo (cooked greens). The coconut cream pie was out of this world!
After our flat tire episode in Ocho Rios, we were relieved to finally find a bright, clean bakery that served lunch. (After searching for a decent place to eat in Ocho Rios, I understand why some cruise ship passengers express their dislike for Ocho Rios, which is probably the dirtiest town I've ever seen.) Most of us tried to eat ultra spicy jerk chicken and pork, served with fresh dinner rolls. Levi ordered a small cheese pizza that took forever to arrive, and was slathered with at least a pound of melted cheese--way too much for a boy with a milk allergy. Bill and I removed (and consumed) most of the cheese, which really was very good, and helped Levi eat the rest of his pizza, which was unlike any pizza we had ever eaten. Besides the abundance of cheese, the pizza was made with sweet roll dough, which gave it an unique flavor. Before we headed back to Montego Bay, Bill bought us our choice of tropical fruit or guava slushes, which quenched our thirst better than anything else we drank that day.
I've been told that guava is not considered by most Jamaicans to be a palatable fruit, but it is delightful in slushes and jelly. In fact, guava jelly is the only kind made in Jamaica. Our children liked it so much that we brought home three jars. The peanut butter that we took with us stayed in Jamaica, with only a couple of spoonfuls removed from the jar. The bottle of grape jelly we took along remained unopened. I hope Janet's six-year-old daughter, Dora, enjoys those American treats as much as our kids liked the guava jelly, and all of the food in Jamaica. Today, when a friend at church asked Victoria, our pickiest eater, to describe the highlight of our trip, she answered, "The food!" Yes!
I've heard that every culture has a version of a dough-wrapped meal. Here in Nebraska, the Runza, or cabbage burger, is king. Michigan has pasties, filled with meat, potatoes, carrots, and rutabagas. Mexico has given us burritos. Jamaica has patties, made with a flaky, orange pastry that conceals a spicy meat filling. Bill and I love patties. We remembered that Erin liked them, too, but Meagan didn't care for them at all when she was little. (Meagan subsisted on grilled cheese sandwiches and mashed Irish potatoes on our previous trips.) We were pretty sure Andy would like patties, because he loves spicy food, but we didn't know if Victoria or Levi would even try them--that's one of the reasons Lillian suggested that we bring peanut butter and jelly from home, so the kids could have familiar food to eat, if necessary.
Jamaican patties were such an appropriate first meal. Meagan expected to like them this time--and she did. Victoria examined hers carefully before trying that first bite, but she ate it all. Levi took a nibble or two, proclaimed it "too hot," then proceeded to eat the whole thing. The rest of us loved the patties, too--they were just as good as we remembered.
Our friend, Lillian, is seventy-five years old, a native Canadian, and Jamaican by marriage. Her husband, Richard, died of cancer a couple of years ago, but Lillian has hardly slowed down. She has retired from her job with Air Canada, but she is still the honorary Canadian Consul for much of Jamaica, outside of Kingston, and she still assists with the family businesses, a quarry and a hardware store. In her free time, she helps out with a children's home. When Lillian heard we were heading to Jamaica again, she e-mailed and called to help us make arrangements. We went through menus over the phone, and she did our grocery shopping for us, so the cupboards and refrigerator were well-stocked when we arrived.
Except for that first day, our lunches usually consisted of American food, like hot dogs and turkey sandwiches, so the kids would be comfortable eating in Jamaica. But even the hot dog buns were homemade; we were intrigued to see that Gloria cut them lengthwise, with the "hinge" on one end instead of along one side. Gloria outdid herself for our evening meals, serving roasted chicken with rice and peas (red beans), red snapper with lime sauce, Jamaican stir fry, and scrumptious pumpkin soup, which is a lot like vegetable beef soup in a rich pumpkin broth.
When Lillian called, she asked if our family liked fruits and vegetables. Apparently, many condo guests do not, but most of our family loves them. I was pleased that everyone, even cautious Victoria, was willing to try almost everything. We were excited to eat such a variety of fresh fruit for breakfast everyday--papaya with lime is my favorite, but we also enjoyed cantaloupe, oranges, pineapple, and mangoes with our spice bread or toast with guava jelly. Bacon and eggs were a hit one morning, and pancakes with syrup made our last morning memorable. Vegetables included the familiar, like green beans, broccoli, and cauliflower with cheese sauce, but we also sampled more exotic fare like bok choy (Asian cabbage), roasted breadfruit, plantains (cooked bananas), cho cho, which tastes like a cross between potatoes and squash, and, of course, ackee, Jamaica's national dish. Ackee is an unusual fruit, often prepared with salt fish or bacon, that looks and tastes much like scrambled eggs. Although it may be poisonous unless prepared properly, ackee is nutritious and delicious. I've already mentioned gnips in my previous post; to eat them, you slip off the green skin, put the whole slimy fruit in your mouth to gnaw off the pulp, then spit out the pit. Gnips are definitely an acquired taste. Meagan adores sugar cane, so Bill hunted all over Montego Bay to find a street vendor who was selling it. You can't really eat sugar cane, which is cut into strips about five inches long. You chew on it instead, sucking out the sweet juice before discarding the woody remains. Sugar cane is also an acquired taste.
Lillian made a special effort to stock kid-friendly snacks. She has seven American grandchildren, so she knows what kids like. Snacks included bananas, Oreos and Ovaltine cookies, Pringles potato chips, and vanilla ice cream with chocolate syrup. One of Victoria's friends asked her to bring him some Jamaican candy. Tamarind balls can be hard to find, and rightly so, because most of us agreed that they taste disgusting! I hope he likes them.
We ate out occasionally while we were in Jamaica. Gloria and Janet both had the day off on Sunday, so we ate our evening meal on a houseboat anchored nearby. To reach the houseboat, we got to ride on a small, pulley-propelled ferry. The proprietors could have let us access the boat via gangplank, but the ferry was much more fun, and safer, too. Several of us relished the heavenly grilled lobster that we had to pick out for ourselves from the below-deck tank. (Afterwards, we discussed the lobster wrangler's probable resume, along with other jobs he might be qualified for.) Andy ordered lamb, which he declared was "very good." Victoria devoured all of her red snapper with anchovy sauce, but she didn't want to try the accompanying potato cake. Those of us who taste-tested for her proclaimed it edible, much like U.S. hash browns. Levi was worried that he wouldn't find anything on the menu worth eating, but he ordered a big bowl of black bean chili. He downed it all, except for a few bites that the rest of us sampled. It was delicious, and not too spicy.
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| Victoria and Mom ride the ferry to the houseboat |
Another day, we ate lunch at the Pelican, which serves a variety of Jamaican and international food. It's interesting to see hamburgers and french fries listed under the international heading. Victoria was thrilled to have a cheeseburger, and Levi gladly ate a plate of spaghetti. The rest of us savored curried goat, jerk chicken and pork, and callaloo (cooked greens). The coconut cream pie was out of this world!
After our flat tire episode in Ocho Rios, we were relieved to finally find a bright, clean bakery that served lunch. (After searching for a decent place to eat in Ocho Rios, I understand why some cruise ship passengers express their dislike for Ocho Rios, which is probably the dirtiest town I've ever seen.) Most of us tried to eat ultra spicy jerk chicken and pork, served with fresh dinner rolls. Levi ordered a small cheese pizza that took forever to arrive, and was slathered with at least a pound of melted cheese--way too much for a boy with a milk allergy. Bill and I removed (and consumed) most of the cheese, which really was very good, and helped Levi eat the rest of his pizza, which was unlike any pizza we had ever eaten. Besides the abundance of cheese, the pizza was made with sweet roll dough, which gave it an unique flavor. Before we headed back to Montego Bay, Bill bought us our choice of tropical fruit or guava slushes, which quenched our thirst better than anything else we drank that day.
I've been told that guava is not considered by most Jamaicans to be a palatable fruit, but it is delightful in slushes and jelly. In fact, guava jelly is the only kind made in Jamaica. Our children liked it so much that we brought home three jars. The peanut butter that we took with us stayed in Jamaica, with only a couple of spoonfuls removed from the jar. The bottle of grape jelly we took along remained unopened. I hope Janet's six-year-old daughter, Dora, enjoys those American treats as much as our kids liked the guava jelly, and all of the food in Jamaica. Today, when a friend at church asked Victoria, our pickiest eater, to describe the highlight of our trip, she answered, "The food!" Yes!
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